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09 February 2010

morning tea with flowers, Calcutta 6am

I woke this morning at 5am to the song of the call of the muezzin drifting into my dreams. The loudspeaker was blaring from within the mosque on Mirza Ghalib Street around the corner from my hotel. It was that familiar feeling I get when I am surrounded by the world of the symbolic. Religion is not my favorite subject but the certainty that is upheld by such belief in uncertainty is created only in Faith. I rose like a spirit and knew I had to get down to the Hooghly river quick. I knew magic awaits only those who are moved into action when called. I had to rouse the hotel staff who were asleep on the floor just inside the locked gates of the entrance. One sleepy eyed fellow woke by an incoming telephone call, lucky for me someone else was his alarm.
Early morning streets of Calcutta are full of mist and the smoke of burning trash which exude a smell only familiar to India; I think it's the leaves that the street sweepers toss on the pyres. Hundreds of sleeping bodies wrapped in blankets and R.E.M. lined the sidewalks along the roads on the way in the final minutes before dawn.
My taxi dropped me just before the road veers into the bridge. There I was above the Mullick ghat(bathing steps to the river) think the Mullicks of Burrabazar but this one was erected by the British in their name.  Here is one of the oldest bathing ghats in Calcutta, there in the shadows of the metal trellis architecture of the Howrah Bridge, enshrouded in mystery by the fading darkness.....this ghat has a special 'Zenana Ghat' (a section exclusively for women) attached to it which is a witness to that era when women of the aristocratic families were brought here in palanquins. The whole carriage was then dipped into the holy river so that the lady of the house was not seen by the proletariat. 


I witheld my descent down the steps because 25 feet below was something out of a scene from Constantinople. Gerbers sunflowers, roses, dahlias and mountains of marigolds amid throngs of bodies moving them from one hand to next. Garlands being draped about sellers bodies like some cosmic dress of the Gods. Exhuberant shouting, the zealous pander... all as the sun was rising on this rainbow spectacle between shanty shacks, railroad tracks and the grey shores of the Hooghly. I walked silently through the morning and this parade of petals with my lens wide open and was offered a tea in a terracotta cup at the end of the line.